Don Ziliak is the man behind a trio of successful North Market businesses: Pastaria, Pastaria Seconda and Sarefino’s. If you’re looking for homestyle Italian dishes, Pastaria will hit the spot.

The North Market hosted another splendid Chef Series Class last night featuring the market’s own Chef Rocco Valentino from Pastaria. Aiding him with the class was Sous Chef Samantha Melton.  Here’s the dynamic duo preparing for the evening:

The first course of the night was a mushroom and celery salad which was such a big hit that it was hastily consumed by the class:

Mushroom and Celery Salad

2 oz. Lemon juice

1/2 tsp. salt

2 1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard

4 oz. Extra virgin olive oil

2 1/2 tsp. Shallot, minced

Black pepper, freshly ground, to taste

2 1/2 # Fresh mushrooms, cleaned

1# Celery hearts

1 Tbs. + 2 tsp. Parsley, chopped

1 Tbs. + 2 tsp. Mint, chopped

10 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano

Mesculun greens, 1 oz. per person

Whisk lemon juice, salt and mustard in a bowl until the salt dissolves. Add the olive oil in a very thin stream, whisking constantly. Stir in shallots and pepper.

Thinly slice mushrooms through the cap and sten. Slice celery thinly on an angle.  Combine mushrooms, celery, parsley and mint in a large bowl. With a vegetable peeler, sliver half of the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese over the top. (Can be made ahead to this point and chilled)

To serve, place greens on plate, toss celery-mushroom salad with dressing and mound on each plate. Garnish with slivers of remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano.

For the second course the class was treated to a tutorial on making homemade gnocchi. I don’t know about everyone else but I was pretty excited to learn this technique and the finished product topped with Tomato Rosemary Broth was divine!

Basic Potato Dumplings ~ Gnocchi (makes 6 servings)

6 Idaho or russet potatoes, large

1 tsp. Salt

1/2 tsp. Freshly ground white pepper

2 Eggs, beaten

4 c. Flour

1/2 c. Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Pinch of nutmeg

1. Place potatoes in a large pot with enough water to cover. Boil the potatoes in their skins for about 40 minutes, until they can be easily pierced with a fork. Allow the potatoes to cool until they can be handled. Peel the potatoes and press them through at ricer or a food mill fitted with a fine blade (or a fine mesh sieve).

2. Spread the riced potatoes on a work surface and let cool completely.

3. Gather the cold riced potatoes into a mound, forming a well in the center. In a bowl, beat the eggs, salt and white pepper. Pour the egg mixture into the well. Sprinkle with nutmeg and work the potatoes and eggs together with both hands. Gradually add 3 cups of the flour and scrape the dough up from the work surface with a knife as often as necessary. Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Incorporation of the ingredients should take no longer than 10 minutes. The longer the dough is worked, the more flour it will require and the heavier it will become.

4. Dust the dough, your hands and the work surface lightly with flour. Cut the dough into six equal parts and set aside. Work one piece of dough. Continue to dust dough, hands and surface as long as the dough feels sticky.

5. Using both hands, roll the piece of dough into a rope 1/2 inch thick, then slice the rope at 1/2 inch intervals. Sprinkle some flour and roll each piece into a ball, flouring as needed. Place on a lightly oiled sheet pan and continue until all dough is finished.

6. To cook the gnocchi, bring 6 quarts of water + 2 tablespoons of sea salt to a boil. Drop the gnocchi into the boiling water a few at a time, stirring gently with a wooden spoon, cook 2-3 minutes until they rise to the surface.

Tomato Rosemary Broth (makes 8 servings)

1 Yellow onion, medium, diced

2 oz. Garlic, chopped

6 oz. Fresh rosemary, chopped

28 oz. Can crushed tomatoes

28 oz. Chicken or veggie broth

8 oz. White wine

1 oz. Extra virgin olive oil

1 oz. Butter

Heat olive oil and butter in sauce pan. Add onion and garlic and cook 2-3 minutes. Add the fresh rosemary and cook one minute. Add the wine and reduce by half. Add the crushed tomatoes and broth and simmer 45 minutes.

Pour over gnocchi and voila!

Then it was on to the main event:

Roasted Cod with Parma Ham and Fresh Sage

6 Cod filets

6 Sage leaves

6 Parma ham slices, paper thin (can substitute Prosciutto)

1/2 head Savoy cabbage

3 Tbsp. Vegetable oil

1 Onion, finely diced, medium

Ground coriander

1 tsp. Salt

1/4 tsp. Black pepper, cracked

2 Tbsp. Parsley, chopped

3 Tbsp. Flour

1 1/2 Tbsp. Black pepper, cracked

1 c. White wine

1/2 c. Carrot, blanched, finely diced

Juice of 1 lemon

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1 c. Chicken stcok

3 Tbsp. Butter

1 Tbsp. Sage, minced

Pat the cod dry. Place a sage leaf in the center of the top of each piece. Wrap a slice of ham around the fish, leaving the sides uncovered, and stick a toothpick into the ham at the point where it meets to hold it in place. Cover and refrigerate until ready to cook.

Wash, dry and core cabbage, keeping it in one piece. Lay the cabbage, cut side down, on a clean, flat work surface. Using a very sharp knife, slice the cabbage lengthwise into very fine shavings. Set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and saute for about 4 minutes or until slightly brown. Add the cabbage and coriander and toss to coat. Lower heat and saute for about 5 minutes or until just softened. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in parsley. Remove from heat. Partially cover and keep warm.

Remove cod from refrigerator. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons of oil until hot but not smoking in a large, nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Lightly dust wrapped fish with flour and cracked pepper. Lay the cod in the pan, top down. Sear for 3 minutes. Turn and sear on the other side for 2 minutes or until just rare in the center. Using a slotted spatula, remove to a warm platter. Place a piece of paper over top to keep warm.

Add the wine, carrot, lemon zest and juice to the same saute pan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 6 minutes, or until the pan is almost dry. Add the stock and butter. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes or until slightly thickened.  Stir in minced sage and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Place equal portions of cabbage in the center of each of 6 warm dinner plates. Set a piece of cod in the center of each, carefully removing the toothpick. Return sauce to high heat and quickly bring to a boil. Remove from heat and spoon equal portions over the top of each piece of cod. Serve immediately.

The lovely Samantha Melton was in charge of dessert and she whipped up a Torta di Polenta or Polenta Cake. It was something of a cross between lemon pound cake and a light cornbread. Served with raspberry coulis the result was the perfect ending to a wonderful dinner.

Torta di Polenta ~ Polenta Cake

5 oz. Bread flour

2 oz. Yellow cornmeal

1 Tbsp. Baking powder

6 oz. Butter, softened

5 oz. Sugar

2 tsp. Vanilla extract

2 tsp. Lemon zest

pinch of salt

6 Egg yolks

2 oz. Sugar

6 Egg whites

1 tsp. Cream of tartar

Confectioners sugar, as needed for garnish

Combine bread flour, cornmeal and baking soda and set aside.  Cream together butter, sugar, vanilla zest and salt until very light. Add egg yolks slowly. Add the flour mixture and mix until just blended.

Whip sugar, egg whites and cream of tartar to medium peaks. Fold meringue into batter. Pour into a buttered and floured 10-inch cake pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 40 minutes or until cake springs back to the touch and is golden brown.

To serve, invert onto platter and dust with confectioners sugar or serve with raspberry coulis.

Raspberry Coulis

1/2 pint Raspberries

2 oz. Sugar

2 oz. Butter

2 oz. Cranberry juice

splash of lemon oil

splash of vanilla

Heat butter in saute pan and add raspberries, cook 2 minutes. Add sugar, vanilla, lemon oil and juice and reduce by half. Puree mixture in blender until smooth. Chill overnight.

Thanks Rocco and Sam! Everything was wonderful!

Can you do without the hassle of attempting to get a reservation at a restaurant for Valentine’s Day, especially this year as it falls on a Saturday? Why not impress your true love with an intimate dinner for two Chez Vous? Our appropriately named Chef Rocco Valentino at Pastaria handcrafts a special menu each year for Valentine’s Day. You’ll get four fabulous courses (with a vegatarian option, even!) and a bottle of wine for a flat $100.

When you pick up your ready-to-impress meal on the 14th you can also collect some extra “trimmings” for the perfect at-home ambience: a bouquet of fragrant flowers for the table and rose petals for scattering at Market Blooms, a bottle of sparkling wine at Grapes of Mirth to set the mood and an assortment of truffles at Pure Imagination Chocolatier. We won’t tell if you ditch the carryout containers and take credit for your in-home feast.

Menu by: Pastaria

Certified Executive Chef Rocco G. Valentino

First course

Cream of spinach soup with horseradish crostini

Second course

Baby spinach with stone ground mustard vinaigrette, gorgonzola cheese and candied pecans

Entrée

Penne Rigate with white wine asparagus butter and sauté of baby squash, sun dried tomatoes, leeks and roasted red peppers

Or

Seared filet of beef with cabernet syrup, essence of basil whipped potatoes and sauté of baby squash

Finale

Chocolate Mousse

Dinner for two (without wine) $85.00

Dinner for two including a bottle of wine $100.00

Wine choices: Farnese Trebbiano D’Abruzzo or Montepulciano D’Abruzzo from Grapes of Mirth

Call (614)805-4976 to order.

Please order before 12 pm on Tuesday February 10

Orders will be available for pick up between 11am and 4:30pm on Saturday February 14^th

When one is at the North Market daily (like me) occasionally it takes a little break to see things with fresh eyes. I was fortunate enough to have a some time off after Christmas and when I returned I was delighted to see that a handful of our merchants had made a few of those subtle changes that keep the Market fresh and exciting.

A new layout at Market Blooms as always emphasizes their signature hand-tied bouquets

A superior selection of cards from sentimental to laugh-out-loud hilarious.

New counters and great graphics liven up the Pastaria in 2009!